Chapter 1: What is Japanese Cuisine?
[001] Exploring the Verkehr Museum: A Journey into the History of Shimizu Port
Today, I’ll be guiding you through the Verkehr Museum, a place that tells the rich history of Shimizu Port.
Let’s start with the impressive brick building in front of us. Can you see the four yellow lines running through the brown bricks? These represent the rank insignia worn on the sleeves of ship officers’ uniforms—four stripes indicate a captain. The entire design of this building reflects its close connection to the sea.
Now, look at the semicircular pond near the entrance. From above, this area is shaped like an anchor! Every element of the building incorporates maritime symbolism.
Notice the lamps near the entrance—they look like hooks. These are modeled after “tekagi,” traditional hooks used in the port to move tuna or blocks of ice. You'll find this motif throughout the museum—in the door handles, light fixtures, and even the lamps behind the reception desk.
Inside, one of the first things you'll see is a large brass door. Its handle is shaped like a tekagi, and if you look up, you'll see the silhouette of a seagull. These custom features were designed specifically for this museum.
Above the entrance, there's a photo showing Prince Akishino and Princess Kiko visiting in 2019 during the 120th anniversary celebration of Shimizu Port. They were especially interested in the Canning Museum, which we’ll visit later.
Now, as we enter the hall and turn around, you’ll see a building called “Roman-kan” in front of us. Believe it or not, the sea used to reach all the way to that point. This museum stands at what was once the heart of the port.
In 1879, one of Japan’s earliest modern quays was built here, launching the modernization of Shimizu Port.
In 1978, Mr. Yohei Suzuki began collecting port tools and history in a prefab building called the Shimizu Port Archive. Over time, this collection grew, and in 1991, the current brick museum was established. Counting from the initial collections, the museum has over 50 years of history.
Finally, the name “Verkehr” comes from German, meaning “traffic,” “distribution,” and also “interaction.” It's a perfect name for a museum that celebrates the flow of people, goods, and culture.
Let’s continue our journey and explore the exhibits inside. Enjoy your visit!
[002] Here I am at Seikenji Temple!!
Today, I’ll be guiding you through the historic "Seikenji Temple" located in Shimizu Ward, Shizuoka City.Let's begin our journey!
Right now, we are standing on a very historic road—the Tokaido.This road once connected Edo (now Tokyo) and Kyoto during the Edo period. We are right at the center of Okitsu-juku, one of the old post towns along the Tokaido.
Looking up, you can see a magnificent temple gate—that's Seikenji Temple, belonging to the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism.Let's go inside!
As we climb the stone steps... Oh, did you hear that train?Believe it or not, the JR Tokaido Line runs right through the temple grounds!When the railway was built in 1889, it unfortunately cut straight through the temple’s traditional pathway. Quite an unusual sight, isn't it?
Originally, visitors would have walked peacefully from the gate straight to the main hall.
Now, look above the entrance gate. There's a large plaque that reads "東海名區" (Tokai Meiku).This was written by a calligrapher from the Korean Joseon Tongsinsa (diplomatic mission) who visited during the Edo period.Here, "Tokai" doesn't just mean the Tokai region—it means Japan as seen from the Korean Peninsula.In other words, it celebrates Seikenji as one of the most beautiful places in Japan!
Speaking of the Joseon Tongsinsa...
During the late 16th century, relations between Japan and Korea were broken due to war.However, Tokugawa Ieyasu restored diplomatic ties, and Korea sent these friendly missions to Japan.The envoys visited Seikenji, where they exchanged poems with the learned temple monks. Many of these poems survive today and are registered as UNESCO Memory of the World heritage.
Inside the main hall, you can see large wooden boards engraved with these poems. It’s truly breathtaking!
As we climb further up, a panoramic view of Shimizu Port spreads before us.Even on a rainy day, you can see the port, cranes, and the famous JAMSTEC research vessel "Chikyu."On a sunny day, you can even see Miho Peninsula stretching out into the ocean, and the horizon between the sky and sea becomes a single straight line—a natural work of art.
Going deeper into the temple grounds, you will find a very special tomb: the grave of Prince Gushichan of the Ryukyu Kingdom (modern-day Okinawa).He came to Japan as an envoy to meet Tokugawa Ieyasu but sadly fell ill and passed away in Sunpu (modern Shizuoka).Out of compassion, Ieyasu ordered that his grave be built at the temple’s highest and most scenic spot, overlooking the ocean that connects to Ryukyu.
Imagine the ocean stretching all the way to Okinawa as you take in the beautiful, expansive view.
Now then, shall we move on to our next destination?